Engine:Supercharger Install

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Supercharger 101

First and foremost, you SHOULD have the VehiCROSS Shop Manual CD to acquaint yourself with any parts, areas, or topics. If you do not have it, get it at TONEMONDAY.COM (link at the bottom of the page). It will be VERY handy if you have any issues with removal, labels, torque specs, etc. This forums aid should be used in conjunction with the directions supplied by Alpine developments. Do NOT solely rely on this.

A fresh oil change and a fresh tank of 91+ octane before install is a good treat, but not necessary.


  • Set of sockets and socket wrenches (up to 22mm)
  • Wrenches (same as above)
  • Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
  • Ring Clip pliers
  • Allen wrenches
  • Pliers/Vice grips (always handy to have)
  • Crankshaft pulley holder (if not available, a large oil filter holder will work)
  • Wire cutters/strippers (whatever wiring/splicing tools you can think of, depending on your fashion of wire extension, like electrical tape, solder and iron, shrink tubing and heat gun, corrugated tubing, etc)
  • Hose pliers (not necessary, but may make life easier when pulling vacuum lines)
  • Light lithium grease (Vaseline actually works too)
  • Hi-heat gasket sealant
  • Thread lock

Other items that you may want to consider getting before install:

  • O-rings for fuel injectors
  • 2 Manifold gaskets
  • Throttle Body gasket
  • Thermostat
  • Serpentine belt
  • Longer vacuum hoses (supplied hoses are NOT long enough to reach new throttle body and throttle body neck location)

Tear down


First, disconnect your negative battery connection.

Bleed your fuel system dry.

Prep: The easiest way to get the supercharger installed is to get as much out of the way as you can. I removed the front bumper cover, grill, and the skid plate. Granted easier access to the radiator (you will see why later). With these out of the way, you will not have to reach as far and will be able to get a hold of areas without them bulking up your space.

Draining down the coolant is a must. The drain plug is on the bottom of the radiator (with the skid plate out of the way, this is MUCH easier to get to). I have an aftermarket radiator, so plug locations may vary. Drain it into a clean container for use later, unless you plan to use fresh fluids.

Disconnect the electrical plugs from MAF (1), throttle body (2) EGR (1), spark plugs (6), fuel injectors (6), fuel protection bracket (1), MAP air sensor, and the temperature sensor (1, I BELIEVE that is what this is).

Disconnect any hoses connected to the throttle body, water-pump, manifold to get them out of the way.

Remove the air-box, intake manifold, throttle body, upper fan shroud, fuel injectors, fuel rails, serpentine belt, and fan clutch assembly. The manifold and fuel rail removal is tricky because of the 2 fuel lines in the rear (attached to the fuel rail) and the EGR piping. Once the manifold is loose, I found it makes it easier to get to these. Once the manifold is removed, be sure to use shop rags to plug your intake holes so no debris falls in.

Now is a good time to replace the thermostat if you are doing so.

Remove the fuel injectors and the fuel pressure regulator from the fuel rail for re-use on the new fuel rails. A very light coating of grease on the o-rings of the fuel injectors should help slide them into the plenum and the new fuel rails. Do not cake on the grease and be careful not to tear the o-rings. This part is NOT SO FUN.

  1. Fuel pressure regulator housing
  2. Fuel return line port
  3. Fuel induction line port
  4. Fuel injector roof housing

Build up

The fuel pressure regulator needs to be seated into the new fuel rail. Be sure to install it just as it was on the original fuel rail, keeping note as to the order of the parts. Finally, make sure the snap ring is secured and seated correctly in the body of the housing.

  1. Air temp sensor port
  2. Fuel pressure regulator input
  3. PCV port input
  4. Fuel pressure regulator
  5. Fuel return line

Replace the 3 bolts holding the fan mounting bracket with the 3 thread rods and the 3 extended studs.

  1. Extended studs
  2. Supercharger drive pulley

Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. You will need to use a pulley holder although a large oil filter holder will work. For last resort (if you are replacing your serpentine belt, you can back-loop the serpentine belt around the pulley and use it as a reverse grip. Once the blot is removed, bolt the supercharger drive pulley over the crankshaft pulley with the supplied bolt and secure it with the 2 smaller supplied bolts (smaller bolts on the sides of the larger center bolt). Thread lock is recommended on these.

With the supercharger drive pulley in place, the serpentine belt can be re-installed. Be careful to align it properly on all the pulleys and in the right configuration. Once the belt is installed, mount the supercharger tensioner pulley bracket on the 3 extended studs from the fan mounting bracket. Make sure the serpentine belt is clear of any obstruction once mounted.

Remove the MAP air sensor from the stock manifold. Remove the small metal plate on the driver's side of the supercharger plenum. Mount the MAP air sensor into the hole and fasten.

Fasten the crossover fuel line on the front of the fuel rails.

With the new EGR mounting block removed from the supercharger, attach it to the EGR pipe back near the firewall. Do not tighten yet. A few turns should do for now. Make sure the small piping that runs to the upper rear of the supercharger and the mounting bracket are still attached to the EGR mounting body. This will make installing later "somewhat" easier.

  1. Power brake booster vacuum
  2. Fuel line injection
  3. EGR exhaust pipe

Now is a good time to mount your cable bracket. You need to play this one by eye and assume it is aligned well with the throttle body. Tighten well since once the supercharger is in place, this is NOT an easy target anymore.


Remove the shop rags from the intake ports. Set the (2) manifold gaskets in place and set the supercharger over the ports, keeping about 1ft of space between the supercharger and the firewall. Attach your fuel return line to the port on the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator housing. Run the other fuel line around the bracket near the firewall behind the EGR pipe and make sure it is accessible to reach later (vice grips around it should keep it in place).

IMPORTANT FOR VISUALS AND SPACE CONSERVATION: Now is a good time to measure up a piece of vacuum hose from your coolant line to the throttle body so you can run it UNDER the supercharger instead of over and around later. Once measured, leave the vacuum line there and make it accessible from the rear so you can reach it later to attach to the throttle body.

Now set the supercharger properly in place over the intake ports, making sure not to move the gaskets. Tighten down the supercharger with 4 bolts and 4 nuts.

Apply some sealant to the EGR tube and tighten to the upper rear of the supercharger. This is not an easy reach and allen wrench torquing is limited, so have patience. Now, tighten down the EGR bracket to the supercharger plenum and hols the EGR block in place.

If the EGR pipe is still loose in the block, now is a good time to tighten it. Torquing is EXTREMELY limited here, so turn up the tunes and enjoy the limited cranking.

The fuel line IN banjo on the back of the fuel rail closest to the EGR can now be connected to the fuel line (the one held by vice grips). Once attached, tighten banjo to the fuel rail.

Reconnect all fuel injector, spark, EGR, and MAP sensor plugs.

Lightly secure the throttle body on the neck of the supercharger. Extend the 2 wire harness that attach to the throttle body. Now extend the wire harness that attached to the air intake hose. Leave a little extra length in there in order to make room for any vacuum lines that may invade the space as well. Connect the 3 extended harness's, the temperature sensor, and the MAF sensor.

Reconnect your negative battery connection. Place napkins under the 3 fuel banjos. Turn the key in the ignition to ON, but do not start the vehicle. Leave it for a few seconds, the switch off. Check the napkins for moisture. Tighten the banjos if there is any sign of fuel leaking. Also check around your fuel in and out on the rear of the fuel rail lines. Tighten the hose clamps if needed. Now, check your injectors. If leaking is seen around your injectors, you will need to remove the fuel rail to make sure it is seated correctly, or if it has a damaged o-ring, or if it is cracked. Continue this process until no more fuel leaking is present. Finally, once there appear to be no more leaks, keep the ignition ON for 20-30 secs. Check for leaks and continue process if there are any present.

Install the supercharger drive belt. Set the tension using the tensioner pulley nut to tighten. Tighten until it is difficult to twist the belt 1/4 of a twist between the supercharger and the crankshaft pulley (the long length of the belt).


Measure, cut, and connect all vacuum lines, except for any leading to the throttle body. Remove loose throttle body and re-attach to the supercharger neck with gasket in between. Connect all throttle body vacuum lines, including the line earlier placed beneath the supercharger (if you took this step). Follow vacuum line diagram for correct connections.

  1. Coolant port
  2. Coolant port
  3. Air temperature sensor port

Make sure all wire harnesses are connected to their proper locations.

Make sure the radiator drain plug is replaced and tightened. Refill the radiator with coolant. Massage the radiator lines while filling to prevent air blockages (I got one.... confused the hell out of me). Be sure to top off the radiator with water if you have any extra room in it, which you might due to longer coolant lines. Replace the radiator cap.

Remove the supercharger fill plug on the front of the supercharger face. Make sure there is oil in it. Sitting level, oil should run out. Fill with oil if needed and replace plug.

Attach intake hose to the throttle body and secure the air-box. Make sure to plug in the MAF sensor.

Replace the fan clutch assembly, the fan, and the fan shroud.

Double and triple check ALL hose connections, make sure all hose clamps are tight, and that all wire harnesses are secured to their ports.

Get a fire extinguisher (just kidding!) and start the engine. Observe the engine and watch for any fluid leaks and listen for any air leaks. Watch belt tension and make sure it isn't too tight or too loose. Turn off the engine and repair anything if needed.

Things to keep in mind:

- Watch temp gauge when first traveling. Air bubbles in the cooling system can block flow and increase temperature. If overheating occurs, shut down and allow engine to cool. Remove radiator cap and massage coolant lines to remove any bubbles. Replace radiator cap and restart. Allow it to sit running at idle for about 20 minutes. If temperature remains normal, try with the A/C on. If that goes well, you are in the clear. If temperature continues to rise, try to flush the coolant and refill again. If overheating persists, the problem most likely is related to some other hardware or a crimped coolant line.

- Supercharger ticking is normal. Operation of the supercharger creates a slight ticking sound so there is nothing to be alarmed about. If ticking is overly loud, check supercharger oil level and change if necessary. If loud ticking persists, the drive may be damaged.

- Watch supercharger belt tension. If it is too tight, you may snap the belt. If it is too loose, it may jump a pulley. Check tension regularly.

- Make sure air filter remains clean. A dirty filter will result in worse supercharger performance. Tone offers a great option for cold air intake use. Word has it that the use of a CAI over the stock air-box results in greater supercharger performance.

- Aftermarket skid-plates that restrict airflow under the vehicle may result in overheating. Make sure to allow the engine to breathe.

I hope this is of some aid to anyone looking to install the Alpine supercharger (Eaton M62). This was compiled during and after my install in hopes of taking away some of the fears that some future installers may have. You do not need to be a certified tech to install it on your own, but some engine knowledge and knowing your way around under the hood does help. If any of this still feels overwhelming, it is probably best to allow for professional installation.

If anyone has anything to add, please do not hesitate to inform me so we can keep this updated. I am SURE i have missed something or that I have typos and errors.

Thanks and enjoy!


Special thanks to Tone and Ldub. *thumbs up*

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Posted with permission from Wormgod
Original Thread via Vehicross.info: http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?p=301576#post301576